Spirit-lifting loveliness on the nose. Generous lightly baked lemon with bright, red skinned apples, and a spritz of lemon peel dancing over the top. The palate has more of the same: homemade lemonade, sharp but sweet with a hint of lime, lemon curd and pastry. There's a touch of something riper too - dried mango and white peach. Lovely bright finish full of green apple skin and crystallised lime. The 40% of reserve wine adds texture of cream and flavours of brioche. This is hand-harvested Pinot Noir-led Champagne made with as little intervention as possible. And it's gorgeous.
As Fergal Sharkey almost said, a good, reasonably priced Champagne producer these days is hard to find. Brocard Pierre are part of a quiet revolution that has been happening in Champagne, which has seen a shift in the power from the huge producers back to small growers who make wine like they do in Burgundy, which is where Thibaud Brocard worked to gain experience. Following organic practices, Thibaud Brocard says "We love to think our vineyard is our garden and we eat it (drink to be 100 % precise :) and we don't want to drink something bad for us!:). In the winery, the less I do the better I feel. My job is 95 % in the vineyards and 5 % in the winery just to control and follow the wines ;)"