Far from the heavy, bolshy reds of Portugal this negra Mole has more in common with it’s parent plant Pinot. Beautifully delicate and ethereal it sings with cranberry and redcurrant with a twist of black pepper. It’s more generous than Burgundy, but not as big as New World Pinot – it sits perfectly in the middle bringing vast amounts of pleasure coupled with elegance, length and texture. I snaffled a sample bottle and quaffed it last night with chilli and lemongrass packed Ottolenghi style fishcakes. It’s juiciness’ complemented the chilli while the wine is delicate enough for meatier fish – so delicious I might try it again for lunch!
I’m constantly amazed by winemaker’s who can transform their indigenous varieties into something world class. They are undoubtedly the visionaries of the wine world and Filipe Vasconsellos, a leading light of the Algarve, is one such individual. He inherited an almost untouched vineyard planted by his family in the late 19th Century that was choca-block with old vines of almost unknown varieties. He’s taken those gems and applied modern wine techniques to produce something really beautiful and unique.