This is hand-harvested Pinot Noir-led Champagne made with as little intervention as possible and very low added SO2. And it's gorgeous. Spirit-lifting loveliness on the nose. Generous baked lemon souffle with bright, red skinned apples, homemade lemonade, sharp but sweet with a hint of lime, lemon curd and pastry. The palate has more of the same, and there's a touch of something riper too - dried mango and white peach. Lovely bright finish full of green apple skin and crystallised lime. The 30% of reserve wine adds textures of cream and flavours of brioche. This isn't like some champagnes with bubbles so defined they almost jump out of the glass and prick your nose, but a lovely soft mousse. Keeps well open for a couple of days too!
As Fergal Sharkey almost said, a good, reasonably priced Champagne producer these days is hard to find. Brocard Pierre are part of a quiet revolution that has been happening in Champagne, which has seen a shift in the power from the huge producers back to small growers who make wine like they do in Burgundy, which is where Thibaud Brocard worked to gain experience. Following organic practices, Thibaud Brocard says "We love to think our vineyard is our garden and we eat it (drink to be 100 % precise :) and we don't want to drink something bad for us!:). In the winery, the less I do the better I feel. My job is 95 % in the vineyards and 5 % in the winery just to control and follow the wines ;)"
FROM THE PRESS
“This is hand-harvested, pinot noir-led champagne made with as little intervention as possible. Expect a fresh lemony acidity, with white peach, green apple and creamy texture thanks to the portion of reserve wine added.”Stacey Smith, The Independent