Everything is a bit more tolerable with a cool glass of Chablis in hand, isn’t it? Coronavirus, Trump, the ever growing dread of your own mortality – they all evaporate in the appreciation of chardonnay from chalk-based terroir. This one from Domaine de Mauperthuis is a true delight, with soul-soothing notes of hazelnut, citrus and white flowers, along with a fine, mineral backbone.
That Mauperthuis now farms organically was one of the main reasons we took an interest in the domaine in the first place. In a rarefied place like Burgundy, it really helps to separate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak. Soils that are chemically sprayed to get rid of weeds and pests tend to kill the microbial life in the soils. Then you have to pump chemical fertiliser in to counter the damage and end up with artificially high yields. The only people winning are the chemical manufacturers. With organic farming there are no short cuts. You have to look after your vines very carefully and work hard to keep them healthy in order to get a decent crop. Organic farming keeps yields low - which means better concentration and of course better wines. Healthier soils also allow the terroir to shine. Ask any Burgundy winemaker worth their salt and they'll confirm this. So yes, organic is the only way.