Woe betide the wine merchant that ignores a tip from Jancis Robinson MW. It was her that first pointed us in the direction of this cracking wine from Mendoza. Made by Bertrand Bourdil, the former winemaker at Mouton-Rothschild and co-founder of Opus One, the Belasco de Baquedano Ar Guentota is not your average Malbec. Making the most of high altitude aspect, Bourdil highlights the savoury notes of the grape and draws out a more sinewy character than is usually found in these parts. Unlike many of its peers, this is not overly polished, but instead wears the harsh terrain whence it comes like a badge of honour.