This is brilliant, classical, pure white burgundy, with that lovely coolness that only Chablis can provide. Beautifully made. Organic and biodynamic, and certified too. Lovely lemony-stoney aroma, candied yellow plums, preserved lemon and a dash of white pepper and salty freshness on the long finish. Can hold its flavour for days once opened.
That Mauperthuis now farms organically was one of the main reasons we took an interest in the domaine in the first place. In a rarefied place like Burgundy, it really helps to separate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak. Soils that are chemically sprayed to get rid of weeds and pests tend to kill the microbial life in the soils. Then you have to pump chemical fertiliser in to counter the damage and end up with artificially high yields. The only people winning are the chemical manufacturers. With organic farming there are no short cuts. You have to look after your vines very carefully and work hard to keep them healthy in order to get a decent crop. Organic farming keeps yields low - which means better concentration and of course better wines. Healthier soils also allow the terroir to shine. Ask any Burgundy winemaker worth their salt and they'll confirm this. So yes, organic is the only way.