At the beginning, Michel Ogier stuck to the methods he had learned (no new oak, no destemming etc.), but when his son, Stephane, took over (at 42, he’s one of the youngest producers on the Cote Rotie) he applied the knowledge he had learned from his travels around the world and the wines have soared in quality. There’s less obvious oaking and a more hands-off approach in the winery. The Ogier vineyard plots – tiny parcels dotted throughout Cote Rotie, on the Cote Blonde, Brune and Cote Rosiers – are all vinified separately in a large cellar complex south of Ampuis opened in 2015, which has given Stephane much more room in which to practice his art. He is not dogmatic in his approach. Fermentations may be with whole bunches or destemmed grapes, while ageing may be in new or old oak – everything depends on the terroir and the vintage, with Stephane adapting accordingly. This approach, along with no small part of dedication and talent has rapidly established Stephane as one of the most sought-after winemakers in the Northern Rhone.