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Ten years ago I met Dermot Sugrue for the first time. It was a tasting at Claridge's. All the producers present had a table except for Dermot, who was sitting outside the entrance to the ballroom clutching an unlabelled bottle, looking forlorn. Everyone scurried past, in their rush to taste the famous wines beyond. But it's precisely what other people overlook that I find the most interesting. Dermot poured me a taster and I could not believe how good it was. For a moment it was like the world stopped turning as I realised this was a seminal wine in the history of English wine. It was as if I'd been waiting my entire wine career to taste this wine. In a movie it would have been with an accompaniment of Ode to Joy. I put my hands up for all we could get. It was 25 dozen. I described it as my wine experience of the year. And it's that very same wine, The Trouble with Dreams 2009, but in magnum, that won Best in Show at the Decanter wine awards, picked among thousands of top wines from around the world, include famous Champagnes.