"Toasty. Lemony and electric! So salty! So fresh! So exciting! Want bottles of this RIGHT NOW. OK, day 2: it’s still super-fresh and entirely 100% savoury, all about Santorini’s sun-blasted white soils and saline breezes. The acidity is off the hook; it would be considered masochistic by some but to me it’s tongue-tingling, and it’s likely to stay this way for years in the cellar. One to buy by the case so you can drink it now as well as later." 18/20 (TQT), JancisRobinson.com

Flinty and floral - greengages, rhubarb and wet stones on the nose, with grapefruit pith and tingly sherbert edges. It seems to combine an effortless fullness, yet is so graceful too - with peach skin, heady white flower blooms, pears and sweet lime driving the palate, and a tantalising salty sea breeze note too. The weight is perfect - with many intricate layers, but nothing OTT, finishing with a textured, leesy and lemony finish. Like some fine white Burgundy, it seems to have that special quality of gliding across the palate with simultaneous concentration and buoyancy too. Tasting this over several days was really exciting, as the wine developed beautifully, suggesting a long future ahead of it - we'd say drink now-2031, or perhaps longer.

#Tasting#

Estate Argyros on the island of Santorini is one of those mythical estates that seem to produce wines against the odds. Truly, when one considers the inhospitable conditions of scorching heat, minimal rainfall, howling salty winds and infertile soils, it's remarkable to think that anything can grow here, even the hardy vine. And yet the vines that Argyros tend are some of the toughest found anywhere on Earth, and the resulting wines one of a kind, encompassing concentration, complex layers and remarkable freshness. The grapes are sourced from only their very best parcels where the vines are ungrafted, meaning they escaped the scourge of phylloxera that decimated much of Europe in the late 19th century and are on their original rootstock. And they're over 200 years old!!

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